Or, you get heckled, aggressively. Following Alber Elbaz‘s 10th anniversary collection for Lanvin last week in Paris, his finale bow took the form of a few words and a song (a snippet of Que Sera, Sera), on a stage which opened up behind the runway backdrop post models clearing the runway. The show goer who shakily lensed this video was amongst the roaring audience and close enough to the photographer’s pit to capture the madness. Starting from 10:00 (below), you can hear the photographer’s wrath, “asking” people to sit down, as their lenses were obstructed. First in French, “Assirent! Assirent!“, then in English, “Sit down! Sit down!!” (how thoughtful), and even throwing in a “please”, which leads into a collective chant (back to French) – they have each other’s back. Keeping in mind these are the people who shoot the archival images I revel in on the daily, I would’ve sat the fuck down.
Canadian beauty [yeah, that’s right – representing] Grace Mahary was the 3rd exit out during the highly-anticipated GivenchyFW12 show in Paris last night. Signed with WM Paris and Elmer Olsen MM in Toronto (mother agent), this was her runway debut in the high fashion circuit, and what a debut it was; a Givenchy exclusive. As part of a diverse cast of coloured beauties, including Daniela Braga (Next NY), Grace Bol (WM Paris), Ajak Deng (IMG), Joan Smalls (IMG), and Cora Emmanuel (Ford), Grace’s uniquely Eritrean features (those eyes) stood apart from the rest. Exclusives, especially those of the Givenchy nature, only mean one thing: watch out for her. This is a prime example of what Canadian soil can do. Check out her darling video after the jump.
Despite donning the most colour-infused looks of the collection, Jeneil Williams (at Nathalie) and Liu Wen (at Marilyn) represented all the colour for their counterparts during the Balenciaga FW12 show, being the only two girls of colour to walk in the sky high office space. A trend I’ve noticed, specifically with Ashley Brokaw, top casting director who’s clients include Balenciaga, Prada, Proenza Schouler, Tommy Hilfiger, and Rag&Bone, is that her casting for Balenciaga is limited to one black girl, who changes every season, and the invariable Asian girl, Liu Wen, for the girls of colour – that’s it. The rest, a vanilla sea mixed with newcomers and the established. See for yourself:
One would have to be (AND know it) in order to rock these clothes, as they are certainly not for the faint of heart (or for anyone not bearing the measurements of a supermodel). Anthony Vaccarello certainly made a splash last season, with his sexy (major understatement) leg-baring designs landing coveted print and red carpet spots (Anne V in thisSS12 look at the 2012 Grammy Awards (below left), and Gwyneth Paltrow covering the March 2012 issue Harper’s Bazaar in this show-closing number from last season (below right)). For FW12, legs were still in abundance with plenty to spare, as were single bare arms with a covered/tailored significant other. Tailoring (the main message in this collection) could have been better executed (twas almost premature for him to venture into the craft so soon), but thankfully it failed to take away from the ooze of quintessential Vaccarello sex appeal, which is what we come for.
Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi, design duo behind Preen, must have gotten their feet stuck in September as their FW12 offerings reeked of springtime clichés, mostly during the first half of the show; fern and apple greens, sharp orange-reds, snow whites galore, botanical floral fusions, and abstract butterfly motifs (their Pre-Fall collection read better for the fall season than these first 18 exits). Despite the undeniable beauty and freshness they evoked (g-r-eat colour blocking), there was a total disconnect leading into the second half of the collection.
The procession continued and eventually dove into looks that translated into what we deemContinue reading
Because I’m a very good friend of Raf Simons, we went for coffee the day after he presented his eponymous FW12 collection in Paris two weeks ago. Unfortunately, I was unable to attend the show for reasons I cannot disclose. I won’t go into details from our conversation (to respect his privacy), but he had 3 things to say about his collection (which we scrolled through on his iPad via the style.com app):
1. Culla. In a sea of black and muted neutrals, stand the fuck out somehow.
Oh sunnies, how I do adore thee. The eyewear offerings this FW12 season came in a slew of shapes, finishes, and contexts, representative of each collection and, ultimately, the man wearing them. The classic aviator shape ran rampant throughout, naturally, but were pushed and played with in the better collections. In the way of lenses, we saw gradient (1,4), mirror (4), solid (3), and clear (5, 6). Speaking of pushing and being playful, Kris Van Assche (5) channeled geek-chic by adding splash guards on the temples of his clear frames, which resembled safety goggles and fit seamlessly with the tone of his collection.
From Birds of Paradise to Jaws? Apparently, that’s how the story is playing out, going into Riccardo’s FW12 collection for Givenchy. Preview images of the brand’s coveted tees for FW12 have been released, with the collection set to show during the menswear shows in Paris, beginning January 18th. If these tees are any indication of what he’ll send down the runway, it’s sure to be bloody great.