Or, you get heckled, aggressively. Following Alber Elbaz‘s 10th anniversary collection for Lanvin last week in Paris, his finale bow took the form of a few words and a song (a snippet of Que Sera, Sera), on a stage which opened up behind the runway backdrop post models clearing the runway. The show goer who shakily lensed this video was amongst the roaring audience and close enough to the photographer’s pit to capture the madness. Starting from 10:00 (below), you can hear the photographer’s wrath, “asking” people to sit down, as their lenses were obstructed. First in French, “Assirent! Assirent!“, then in English, “Sit down! Sit down!!” (how thoughtful), and even throwing in a “please”, which leads into a collective chant (back to French) – they have each other’s back. Keeping in mind these are the people who shoot the archival images I revel in on the daily, I would’ve sat the fuck down.
Despite donning the most colour-infused looks of the collection, Jeneil Williams (at Nathalie) and Liu Wen (at Marilyn) represented all the colour for their counterparts during the Balenciaga FW12 show, being the only two girls of colour to walk in the sky high office space. A trend I’ve noticed, specifically with Ashley Brokaw, top casting director who’s clients include Balenciaga, Prada, Proenza Schouler, Tommy Hilfiger, and Rag&Bone, is that her casting for Balenciaga is limited to one black girl, who changes every season, and the invariable Asian girl, Liu Wen, for the girls of colour – that’s it. The rest, a vanilla sea mixed with newcomers and the established. See for yourself:
One would have to be (AND know it) in order to rock these clothes, as they are certainly not for the faint of heart (or for anyone not bearing the measurements of a supermodel). Anthony Vaccarello certainly made a splash last season, with his sexy (major understatement) leg-baring designs landing coveted print and red carpet spots (Anne V in thisSS12 look at the 2012 Grammy Awards (below left), and Gwyneth Paltrow covering the March 2012 issue Harper’s Bazaar in this show-closing number from last season (below right)). For FW12, legs were still in abundance with plenty to spare, as were single bare arms with a covered/tailored significant other. Tailoring (the main message in this collection) could have been better executed (twas almost premature for him to venture into the craft so soon), but thankfully it failed to take away from the ooze of quintessential Vaccarello sex appeal, which is what we come for.
Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi, design duo behind Preen, must have gotten their feet stuck in September as their FW12 offerings reeked of springtime clichés, mostly during the first half of the show; fern and apple greens, sharp orange-reds, snow whites galore, botanical floral fusions, and abstract butterfly motifs (their Pre-Fall collection read better for the fall season than these first 18 exits). Despite the undeniable beauty and freshness they evoked (g-r-eat colour blocking), there was a total disconnect leading into the second half of the collection.
The procession continued and eventually dove into looks that translated into what we deemContinue reading
Because I’m a very good friend of Raf Simons, we went for coffee the day after he presented his eponymous FW12 collection in Paris two weeks ago. Unfortunately, I was unable to attend the show for reasons I cannot disclose. I won’t go into details from our conversation (to respect his privacy), but he had 3 things to say about his collection (which we scrolled through on his iPad via the style.com app):
1. Culla. In a sea of black and muted neutrals, stand the fuck out somehow.
Oh sunnies, how I do adore thee. The eyewear offerings this FW12 season came in a slew of shapes, finishes, and contexts, representative of each collection and, ultimately, the man wearing them. The classic aviator shape ran rampant throughout, naturally, but were pushed and played with in the better collections. In the way of lenses, we saw gradient (1,4), mirror (4), solid (3), and clear (5, 6). Speaking of pushing and being playful, Kris Van Assche (5) channeled geek-chic by adding splash guards on the temples of his clear frames, which resembled safety goggles and fit seamlessly with the tone of his collection.
Slowly, but surely, I’ll begin to both sing praise and brutally thrash the FW12 menswear collections. The weekend is now upon us, which means I have some time to sit down and carefully go through the shows and construct an opinion. Calvin Klein Collection is always a favourite, and Italo Zucchelli delivered another home run. Apart from the flawlessly foward-thinking, minimalist aesthetic-bearing, ultra luxury-evoking clothes (all the croc paneling/separates and those matte iridescent pieces), the casting was the other impeccable story here. From the current face of Givenchy, Simone Nobili, to past faces of Calvin Klein, Dmitriy Tanner and David Agbodji, to the runway favourites including O’Shea Robertson, Simon Nessman, and Sebastian Sauvé, the gorgeous-faced exits didn’t stop. Exclusive to CK this season were the highly buzzed about Australian twins Jordan & Zac Stenmark, who opened/closed the show (Zac opened, Jordan closed). Dear Jennifer Venditti (casting director for this and other high profile shows), thank you. Gushing about a well edited and beautifully executed collection is one thing, but watching it for yourself is another:
From Birds of Paradise to Jaws? Apparently, that’s how the story is playing out, going into Riccardo’s FW12 collection for Givenchy. Preview images of the brand’s coveted tees for FW12 have been released, with the collection set to show during the menswear shows in Paris, beginning January 18th. If these tees are any indication of what he’ll send down the runway, it’s sure to be bloody great.
” …to make it here, or more precisely on the runway, he’ll have to develop a more pointed design message, and leave the primary colors down under”, wrote Nicole Phelps, Executive Editor at style.com, about Josh Goot‘s NYFW debut, showing his SS07 collection. He must’ve really taken note of that particular review, as the Sydney-born designer has come a long way from his notable days of tailored cotton jersey. “Since then, simplicity, a graphic sense, sport references, and perhaps our consistent presentation of a girl have become signatures”, stated the designer in an interview with Oyster Magazine. I’d say his AW12 collection (see after the jump) definitely embodies and exemplifies this recently acquired sense of direction.